Alternative Rock

By Nancy Pardue, Editor

Photography by Jonathan Fredin

Tradition has it that diamonds are a girl’s best friend. But … they’re not the only friend we’ve got. 

Some of today’s brides-to-be choose gemstones over diamonds as an alternative rock in their engagement rings. Local jewelers say the reasons are largely personal.

“Often, the gem she wants is the birthstone of her fiancé, or her child in a second marriage, or even her own,” said Barbara Swift, owner of Swift’s Fine Jewelry of Knightdale. “Sometimes she’s inherited a gemstone, and for sentimental reasons wants to incorporate it into her engagement ring. It has meaning to her.”    

Gemstone engagement rings are not a new trend — remember Princess Diana’s 18-carat blue sapphire and diamond ring?

“The ring symbolizes something beautiful, rare and precious, like the traits the couple hopes to share,” said Anfesa Matthews, owner of Anfesa’s Jewelers in Garner. “Some use the stone of the month they met, some accent the gem with diamonds.”

Swift has worked in the jewelry industry for 23 years, and says the most sought-after precious gems are blue sapphire, emerald and ruby. In semi-precious stones, popular choices are blue topaz, garnet and amethyst.

How can you choose the gem that will represent your romance for a lifetime? Follow these jewelers’ advice. 

“You want a good color and a good cut, and a stone that’s fairly transparent, where you can’t see inclusions (flaws) inside,” said Swift, adding that inclusions are rare in most gems. Also important is the hardness of the stone.

Rings courtesy of Anfesa’s Jewelers and Swift’s Fine JewelryMatthews, a certified diamond rating specialist with 17 years’ jewelry experience, says jewelers use the Mohs’ scale to measure stone hardness. A diamond, for example, rates a 10 on the scale as the hardest of stones.

Sapphires and rubies rate 9, emeralds a step or two lower, meaning they are more apt to scratch, which is a consideration for everyday wear.

Oval cuts are popular for a center gemstone, Swift says, and Matthews advises care with pointed stones like marquise or pear cuts. She prefers round brilliant or cushioned cuts, meaning a square with rounded corners, for durability.

Matthews also cautions against deep-cut stones. With much of the stone’s weight in the bottom of the ring, there’s less to reflect light on top.

Natural gemstones are available in a wide array of shades. For example, sapphires range from sky blue to deep navy, and amethysts, usually lavender, can even be found in shades of green. 
Traditionally, the colors hold special significance, such as red for passion, green for faithfulness, or blue for spirituality.

Be sure to ask your jeweler if a stone has been heat-treated, often done to bring out more brilliant color, and to explain a gem’s carat weight, which differs from diamonds.

Finally, Swift and Matthews point out the cost factor in the gem versus diamond debate.

“Gemstones are more cost-effective than diamonds in most cases,” Matthews said, “with so many options.”

For example, a precious ruby is red, but so is a semi-precious garnet, in a more modest price range. And Swift says the more-desired navy sapphire always costs less than a sapphire in a lighter shade of blue.

“It’s not apples to apples,” Swift said of the comparison. “Some high-quality emeralds could cost more than an average-quality diamond. But in most cases, a gem costs much less,” allowing for a larger stone in the engagement ring, or a more elaborate mounting.

The bottom line, the experts say, is that no two gemstones are alike. Shop around, then deal with a jeweler you trust.

After all, Matthews said, “The wedding starts, and ends, with a ring.”